Why a cruise is the best way to see Croatia’s overlooked coastal jewels

Get under the skin of the blissful Adriatic outposts mass tourism hasn’t yet reached

As the motorised Seabob sprung to life – propelling me down into a glorious underwater world – I doubt even Disney’s flame-haired Little Mermaid could have been more delighted. Spying an unsuspecting shoal of fish, I hit the accelerator and gave chase. We’d moored in a tiny horseshoe-shaped bay only minutes earlier, and out the water toys had come – paddle-boards, canoes, noodles; but hurtling through the shimmering aquamarine waters, I knew the little diving scooter had been the right call. 
It was my second morning aboard a week-long cruise around Croatia’s Dalmatian Islands, and things were off to an exhilarating start. I’d had no idea such antics awaited when we’d sailed from Split two days before – though my intrigue had been piqued as our plane descended into Croatia’s second city, my cabin window framing a breathtaking panorama of pocket-size isles stretching to the horizon.
There are more than 1,200 scattered across this slice of the Adriatic Sea (though only around 50 are inhabited), and our 38-passenger mega-yacht – the appropriately named Memories – proved to be an ideal way to discover them. Over the course of the week, we called in at sophisticated party resorts, rustic hideaways and deserted unspoilt coves, where we’d jump off the back of the boat to cool off. Between island stops, we lazed on deck or among the bubbles of the hot tub, admiring the views and anticipating what excitement the next port of call would bring.
Each day brought a fresh destination for our sociable little group of passengers to explore – skylines punctuated by distinctive bell towers and churches, and below them, pretty harbours and waterfront restaurants overlooking gently bobbing fishing boats. And for all the variety, there were unmistakable similarities between many of the gorgeous tiny towns, all winding stone passageways and honey-coloured houses under cloaks of terracotta tiles – a legacy of nearly 400 years of Venetian rule.
As the cruise was half-board, we dined ashore most nights – a wonderful way to get a sense of each port’s unique feel and flavour, from the gorgeous setting (and tasting menu) at Michelin-starred Zoi, built into the walls of Split’s Diocletian’s Palace, to the gorgeous – and also Michelin-starred – Dubrovnik Restaurant, set in the heart of that city’s labyrinthine streets. 
And it wasn’t just the food which gave us a taste of each place. On the hip island of Hvar – often likened to Ibiza for its hedonistic leanings, jet-set crowd and fashionable boutiques – the hardened party animals among us headed for its premier nightclubs; while the following night, on sleepy sister island Vis, we instead followed the mellifluous tones of a men’s acapella group echoing along the main town’s medieval streets. 
How appropriate, on an island still relatively untouched by the modern tourism tide, thanks to its time as a Yugoslav naval base, off-limits to foreigners. It only opened its doors to visitors in 1989, but though it remains rustic and quiet, it’s also become a site of pilgrimage for fans of the film Mamma Mia! Here We Go Again, which was filmed there.
We found a similarly pleasing soundtrack on visits to the sparkling lakes of Mljet National Park, where we strolled to the sound of rasping crickets and the scent of pine trees, and of cascading waterfalls at Krka national park, where iridescent dragonflies darted above the torrents and giant trout lurked in sheltered pools.
But it was tiny Korcula that truly stole our hearts – a medieval gem with a thick warren of stone streets, each lined with narrow craft shops and atmospheric drinking haunts (one atop a stone tower, where guests climb a ladder and their drinks are hoisted up behind them).
Along the way, our sailing was peppered with wine tastings and walking tours, until at least we reached the end of our journey in the peaceful, overlooked hamlet of Ston, an hour’s drive along the coast from Dubrovnik. Here we were presented with freshly harvested oysters and a glorious sunset – utterly spellbound by the Pearl of the Adriatic.
Sara Macefield was a guest of Cruise Croatia, which offers one-week sailings between Dubrovnik and Split, including stops at Vis, Hvar, Trogir and Korcula (020 8004 2345; cruisecroatia.com). From £1,795pp on one of its luxury vessels departing May 10 2025, based on half-board and including private transfers, excursions and wifi. Flights extra.

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